SANGIOVESE

WINE SIPPER

Sangiovese is Italy's most widely planted red grape variety. Indigenous to Tuscany, where it produces some of the country's top wines including Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the name literally translates as the "blood of Jove." An ancient variety, in the modern world, Sangiovese is often blended with a little Cabernet. The parameters for this tasting allowed a top price of $25 retail, but two of the winners came in at the lower end of the spectrum. And that's good news at this tax-strapped time of year.

2003 Falcor Sangiovese, $22.50

This ringer from California (all the other wines were Italian) was one of the most …